Jean-Luc Godard’s films are often discussed in terms of political radicalism, narrative experimentation, and cinematic innovation, but his approach to art direction—including costume design, set aesthetics, and color composition—remains one of the most striking yet underexamined aspects of his visual language. More than mere mise-en-scène, Godard’s art direction functions as fashion in itself, shaping the aesthetic and ideological world of his characters. Whether through the carefully curated costumes of his heroines, the deliberate color blocking of his sets, or the deconstruction of bourgeois taste, Godard elevates style into a realm of meaning that transcends its traditional cinematic function.
Fashion in Godard’s cinema is not simply about clothing; it is about how style, color, and visual composition interact with ideology. His films often explore the tensions between consumer capitalism and radical leftist politics, and his art direction reflects these contradictions through aesthetic choices that question, parody, or subvert dominant cultural norms. His use of primary colors, mod fashion, revolutionary symbols, and minimalist set designs all contribute to a distinct aesthetic world where fashion operates as both a visual pleasure and a site of ideological critique.
This article examines Jean-Luc Godard’s art direction as fashion, analyzing how his meticulous attention to aesthetic detail transforms style into a form of political expression. Drawing from Marxist, feminist, and semiotic theories, we will explore how Godard’s art direction engages with fashion beyond costume design—through color theory, set decoration, and intertextual references—to challenge consumerism, bourgeois taste, and the commodification of rebellion.
One of the most recognizable elements of Godard’s art direction is his bold use of primary colors, which function not just as visual markers but as ideological statements. In films like Pierrot le Fou (1965), La Chinoise (1967), and Weekend (1967), red, blue, and yellow are used to highlight tensions between consumer culture, revolutionary politics, and artistic expression.
Red often signifies both passion and revolution—it is the color of love, blood, and communism. In Pierrot le Fou, Anna Karina’s Marianne wears a striking red dress that both seduces and foreshadows violence. In La Chinoise, the Maoist students dress in red as a direct visual reference to Chinese revolutionary iconography.
Blue often represents bourgeois stability or melancholy—in Pierrot le Fou, blue dominates Ferdinand’s wardrobe, symbolizing his existential detachment. In Une femme est une femme (1961), blue backgrounds contrast with red costumes, creating a dynamic interplay between emotional depth and aestheticized surface.
Yellow, often associated with consumer culture and artificiality, is used to highlight materialism. In Weekend, bright yellow billboards and clothing items stand out in a world collapsing into anarchy, emphasizing the absurdity of capitalist spectacle.
By using these colors in striking combinations, Godard creates an aesthetic that resembles high fashion editorial spreads, where form and color override conventional storytelling. His approach to color theory aligns with both pop art and avant-garde fashion photography, emphasizing style as a form of meaning production rather than mere decoration.
Godard’s set designs are often minimalist, modernist, and self-aware, mirroring the clean lines and stark contrasts of 1960s high fashion photography. Unlike the elaborate, immersive mise-en-scène of classical Hollywood, Godard strips down his environments to emphasize artificiality and conceptual abstraction. This minimalist approach aligns with the principles of modernist design, where functionality, simplicity, and deconstruction take precedence over ornamental excess.
For instance, in Deux ou trois choses que je sais d’elle (1967), the interiors are deliberately plain and detached, reflecting the alienation of consumer society. The film critiques the homogenization of modern urban life, mirroring the mass production of fashion under capitalism. Similarly, in Alphaville (1965), the futuristic cityscape is created not through extravagant sci-fi sets but through existing modernist architecture, reinforcing a stark, fashion-like minimalism that feels eerily detached yet hyper-stylized.
This minimalist aesthetic is also reflected in fashion trends of the 1960s, particularly in the work of designers like André Courrèges, Pierre Cardin, and Yves Saint Laurent, who introduced clean lines, futuristic silhouettes, and monochrome palettes that mirrored the modernist aesthetic found in Godard’s films.
Although Godard’s actresses are often styled in a way that aligns with contemporary fashion trends, their costumes serve as more than just reflections of personal style—they operate as ideological markers, revealing contradictions within capitalism, feminism, and leftist politics.
Anna Karina, Godard’s most famous muse, is often associated with a quintessentially French chic aesthetic—striped shirts, trench coats, short skirts, and berets. However, her costumes often function as ironic commentaries on bourgeois femininity. In Vivre sa vie (1962), her bobbed haircut and sleek black dresses evoke the image of an idealized French New Wave woman, but as the film progresses, her fashionable appearance becomes a tool of commodification. Her transformation into a sex worker is mirrored in her wardrobe shifts, exposing how fashion under capitalism can be both liberating and exploitative.
In La Chinoise, Anne Wiazemsky’s character, Véronique, dresses in Maoist red tunics and military-inspired attire, embracing the uniformity of revolutionary aesthetics. This rejection of bourgeois fashion aligns with leftist ideals of collectivism, where personal style is subordinated to political identity. However, Godard also questions whether this rejection of consumer fashion is itself another form of aestheticized performance—one that, like all styles, can be co-opted by capitalism.
Jean Seberg’s pixie haircut and minimalist wardrobe in À bout de souffle (1960) became an icon of effortless cool, influencing generations of fashion. Her New York Herald Tribune T-shirt is not just a casual outfit choice—it embodies American influence, modernity, and youth culture in postwar France. Godard, by highlighting her fashion, presents a contradiction between American consumer culture and existentialist detachment, positioning her as both a style icon and a critique of transatlantic influence.
Godard’s fragmented, self-aware visual style deeply influenced the world of fashion photography and advertising. His use of text overlays, jump cuts, and radical framing has been echoed in editorial spreads, particularly in magazines like Vogue, i-D, and Dazed & Confused.
Designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Nicolas Ghesquière have cited Godard’s work as an inspiration for collections that blend high fashion with countercultural references.
Luxury brands like Prada, Saint Laurent, and Chanel have created advertising campaigns that mimic Godard’s jump-cut editing and pop-art color blocking, turning his radical aesthetic into a high-fashion commodity.
This ironic cycle—where Godard critiques capitalism, only for his aesthetic to be absorbed into capitalist fashion—demonstrates how style, even in its most radical forms, is always at risk of co-optation.
Jean-Luc Godard’s art direction functions as fashion in its own right—his use of color, minimalist sets, and iconic costuming transforms his films into curated visual statements. While his aesthetic aligns with contemporary fashion trends, it simultaneously deconstructs and critiques them, revealing the political contradictions of consumer capitalism.
Godard’s work raises essential questions: Can fashion ever be truly radical, or will it always be absorbed back into the capitalist spectacle? Is style inherently ideological, or can it exist outside of economic structures? His films do not offer definitive answers but instead encourage viewers to question the relationship between beauty, consumerism, and political identity, turning fashion itself into a site of resistance and debate.
Jean-Luc Godard, one of the most radical figures of the French New Wave, was not only a filmmaker but also a political thinker who used cinema as a medium for ideological critique. His films, particularly from the 1960s and 1970s, reflect deep concerns with leftist politics, capitalism, and cultural hegemony. While his work has been extensively analyzed from political, aesthetic, and philosophical perspectives, the role of fashion in his films has often been overlooked. Yet, fashion in Godard’s cinema functions as more than mere costume design—it becomes a site of ideological tension, a means of character expression, and a reflection of the socio-political struggles of the time.
In Godard’s films, female characters often embody both revolutionary ideals and the contradictions of consumerist modernity. Their clothing—whether modish Parisian styles, bourgeois fashion, or utilitarian revolutionary garb—signals their position within broader ideological structures. Godard, particularly in his most politically charged films of the late 1960s, uses women’s fashion to critique consumer capitalism, patriarchal objectification, and the commodification of beauty.
Now i pay attention to explore the intersection of fashion, femininity, and left-wing politics in the films of Jean-Luc Godard, analyzing how his actresses—such as Anna Karina, Jean Seberg, Anne Wiazemsky, and Marina Vlady—become aestheticized symbols of political struggle. Drawing from Marxist, feminist, and postmodernist theories, we will examine how Godard’s films interrogate fashion’s complicity in capitalism while also using it as a tool for subversion and resistance.
Karl Marx’s theory of commodity fetishism provides a fundamental framework for understanding fashion’s role in capitalism. In Capital (1867), Marx explains how commodities, through capitalist production, become detached from the labor that created them, acquiring an almost mystical value that transcends their utility. This phenomenon is particularly visible in fashion, where clothing ceases to be mere fabric and instead becomes a signifier of class, identity, and power.
Godard’s films often foreground this process, exposing how fashion operates within the spectacle of consumer culture. In Une femme est une femme (1961), Anna Karina’s character, Angela, embodies the contradictions of modern femininity. She is a woman who desires independence and yet is trapped within a world where her beauty and style are commodified. Her outfits—bright red dresses, striped tops, and stylish coats—draw the audience’s attention to the artifice of cinematic glamour, yet Godard simultaneously critiques the capitalist structures that demand women’s participation in consumer culture.
In Deux ou trois choses que je sais d’elle (1967), one of Godard’s most explicit critiques of consumer capitalism, Marina Vlady’s character, Juliette, is a housewife turned part-time sex worker, a woman whose very existence is shaped by the commodification of both labor and aesthetics. The film repeatedly draws attention to consumer goods, including clothing, as symbols of alienation. Godard’s fragmented, essayistic narration over the film highlights how fashion and beauty industries manufacture desire, trapping women in cycles of consumption and self-commodification. Juliette’s fashionable trench coats and carefully arranged hairstyles do not signify empowerment but rather the oppressive demands of capitalism on women’s bodies.
Feminist film theory, particularly the work of Laura Mulvey, provides another critical lens through which to examine fashion in Godard’s cinema. In her essay Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema (1975), Mulvey argues that classical cinema constructs women as passive objects of the male gaze, their bodies and fashion serving as visual pleasure for the audience.
Godard, while complicit in this dynamic, also disrupts it. His women are undeniably stylish, but their fashion choices often serve to question rather than affirm their objectification. In Bande à part (1964), Anna Karina’s Odile dresses in the archetypal mod aesthetic—pleated skirts, berets, and fitted sweaters—embodying a seemingly innocent femininity. Yet, as the film progresses, her stylish exterior becomes a tool of irony. Her image is fetishized by the male protagonists, Franz and Arthur, but Godard’s distancing techniques—jump cuts, direct addresses to the camera, and playful intertextuality—undermine any straightforward objectification.
Similarly, Vivre sa vie (1962) portrays Nana (again played by Karina) as a woman whose identity is constantly mediated through her appearance. Her bobbed hair and dark eyeliner evoke silent film icons like Louise Brooks, situating her within a cinematic lineage of fashionable yet tragic heroines. However, Godard exposes how Nana’s beauty and fashion are not simply self-expressive but rather dictated by economic necessity. Her descent into sex work is visualized through changes in her clothing—her wardrobe shifts from casual sweaters to more performative, fetishized outfits as she becomes fully immersed in the economy of desire.
By the late 1960s, Godard’s films took a decisive turn toward radical leftist politics, aligning himself with Maoist and Marxist ideologies. This shift is most evident in La Chinoise (1967), a film that directly engages with revolutionary youth culture. The fashion in La Chinoise reflects this ideological commitment: Anne Wiazemsky and her comrades wear Red Guard-inspired outfits, rejecting bourgeois style in favor of Maoist aesthetics.
However, Godard does not present this revolutionary fashion uncritically. The young radicals of La Chinoise are often portrayed as naïve, their adoption of Maoist uniforms more performative than substantive. The film thus interrogates whether fashion can ever truly escape capitalist co-optation. As theorists like Theodor Adorno and Guy Debord argue, capitalism has an uncanny ability to absorb and neutralize radical aesthetics. Even anti-capitalist fashion can become a commodity, as seen in the commercialization of Che Guevara T-shirts and the transformation of punk rebellion into a marketable style.
In Week-end (1967), a film that envisions the collapse of bourgeois civilization, fashion becomes grotesque. The protagonists, a bourgeois couple, wear chic yet increasingly tattered outfits as they traverse a dystopian landscape of burning cars and cannibalistic revolutionaries. Their elegant clothing, so meticulously chosen at the film’s start, becomes absurd in the face of impending class warfare. Here, Godard pushes his critique of fashion further—luxury and beauty, rather than signifying sophistication, become symbols of decadence and moral decay.
The question remains, can fashion, a product of capitalism, ever be a tool for leftist resistance? Godard’s films suggest that while fashion is deeply entangled with consumerism and commodification, it can also serve as a medium for critique and subversion. His actresses, particularly Anna Karina and Anne Wiazemsky, embody both the allure and the limitations of fashion as a political statement.
Godard’s engagement with fashion reflects a broader Marxist and postmodernist skepticism toward aesthetics under capitalism. Like Walter Benjamin, who argued that the reproduction of art in the age of mechanical reproduction changes its political function, Godard recognizes that fashion’s revolutionary potential is always at risk of being absorbed by the system it seeks to challenge.
Yet, his films also acknowledge the affective power of fashion—the way clothing shapes identity, influences perception, and communicates social belonging. The stylish heroines of his early films may be trapped within the capitalist spectacle, but they also exude a sense of agency and rebellion. In his later, more overtly political films, the very rejection of bourgeois fashion becomes a fashion statement in itself, highlighting the paradoxes of revolutionary aesthetics.
Ultimately, Godard’s cinema does not offer a clear resolution to the contradictions between fashion and left-wing politics. Instead, it compels us to critically engage with these tensions, to question the ideological underpinnings of beauty and style, and to recognize that even within the most radical gestures, the specter of commodification looms. Fashion in Godard’s films, much like cinema itself, remains a battleground where resistance and co-optation continually intersect.